![]() ![]() For jumper cables, you can pretty much ignore inductance and capacitance, leaving resistance and suitable insulation as the only major concerns.“Click-click-click… click-click-click.” Then, dead silence. Not a problem for a DC application like jumper cables. I've got home-made jumper cables made from "welding cable", and every time I use 'em in cold weather I have to repair the cracked insulation. 2-gauge would be minimum in my book.īe careful what insulation is used. Proper jumper cables are 15-20 feet long, so they're going to be heavier than 4-gauge cable. Good battery cables are 4-gauge, but again, they're only a few feet long. Good luck.Ĭrappy battery cables are 6 gauge, and they're only a few feet long. You might as well connect the cars via their cigarette lighters. Don't get me started on 10 or 12 gauge "jumper cables". If you think you're going to push that much current through an 8-gauge cable, you're crazy. V-8s with Delco starter motors of the '60s and '70s often pull 175-200 amps. Inductance, capacitance, and impedance all have to be considered.Īutomotive Example: '70s Oldsmobiles with the big V-8 and the big and heavy Delco starter motor, can have a rated starter draw of 225 amps. The higher the frequency, the weirder things get. Things get weird in a hurry when you're engineering for an AC application like audio/video. For jumper cables, you can pretty much ignore inductance and capacitance, leaving resistance and suitable insulation as the only major concerns. Already saved other people's asses a few times with them.Ĭlick to expand.Not a problem for a DC application like jumper cables. Real copper thick gauge cables are expensive but actually do the job if you've got the battery. ![]() I recommend 25ft cables so you can actually reach the terminals when not able to park close. Lots of configurations available on that page. Anyway those cables are very hard to find, so then I found a cable listing by Century Tool (don't know if related). Finally narrowed it down to some cables made by Century Wire, bought 25ft 2/0 cables, part D1132025BK. Secondly you get completely different results searching "jumper cables" vs "booster cables". Firstly most cables are copper-clad aluminum which doesn't fly in my book. So then I looked online and found a few things. Then I looked at having a welding shop make some, but there's no shops near me. I looked into making my own, but the cost for the cable, clamps, and a crimper was about the same as buying them. Nothing worse then a set of cables that doesn't wnat to move in the cold. You also want insulation that is flexible in the cold. The thin strands of copper make it flexible. Welding wire is good, but generally over priced. If you decide to make your own, good quality wire is the key. ![]() If that is not enough I have a 10 and 20 ft extension cables that I can add. I have a 5 foot section of jumper cables that works in most cases. The there are Anderson connector on the bumper that I can plug a winch, jumper cables, or tools into. The F350 is permanently wire for with 1 guage going to the front and rear bumpers. I'm currently using a custom set I made with Anderson connectors. I have the set below, and am extremely happy with them. If you already have welding cable it is a good choice.ģ) Bigger is better, the only down side is they are more expensive, take up more space, and are heavier. You are going to pay more for it but it is worth it. However good cables are going to be high strand count also. It just doesn't create enough amps.Ģ) Depends, welding cable is better then most store bought cables. A car is not going to be able to jump a diesel regardless of the cable. ![]()
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